El Camino. Day 9 – Linares to Airexe
2025-04-23
I left the hostel just before sunrise. The first part of the day was all downhill—but before I could enjoy that, I had to earn it first. That meant climbing up Alto de Roque, and then a bit higher to Alto de Poio. Once I made it to the top, there was a 30-kilometer descent. My brakes were screeching at times.
As great as the descent was, it came with a curse: I didn’t have to pedal, but I was freezing. The air was sharp and fresh, and by the I rolled into Sarria, I couldn’t feel my feet. My hands were barely functional. I ducked into a café for breakfast—mostly just to warm up—and that helped a lot.
After Sarria, the road began to climb again, which got the blood flowing. If you look at the elevation profile, it resembles a two-hump camel: one hump midway between Sarria and Portomarín, and the other between Portomarín and Palas de Rei.
I stopped in another tiny village a few kilometers short of Palas do Rei—just a few houses.
The day was otherwise uneventful. Not much to see along the way or at the destination. The only noteworthy moment: I passed the 100km-to-Santiago mark. Suddenly, the road was packed with walkers, as if a few buses had pulled up and dumped everyone out for the final stretch to earn their certificates.
Tomorrow is the final push. It’s not too short and not too long, with a fair share of ups and downs. I just hope it leans more toward “scenic challenge” than “test of character”.
Today in numbers:
85 km – distance cycled
130 – beds in one room at a hostel in Portomarín (I passed on that opportunity; it reminded me a little too much of the army)